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Credits (24 swatches): Anja Hertenberger, Barbro Scholz, Beam Contrechoc, Becky Stewart, Ebru Kurbak, Hannah Perner-Wilson, Irene Posch, Isabel Cabral, Jie Qi, Katharina Vones, Kristi Kuusk, Lynsey Calder, Marina Toeters, Marta Kisand, Martijn ten Bhoemer, Maurin Donneaud, Meg Grant, Melissa Coleman, Mika Satomi, Mili John Tharakan, Pauline Vierne, Plug and Wear, Sarah Taylor, Sara Robertson
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Credits: Maurin Donneaud & Laurent Malterre Year: 2012 References: http://tapiton.drone.ws/fr/index.html Links: http://maurin.donneaud.free.fr/?-Keyboard- Materials: polyester, copper thread coated with silver. Techniques: knitting Dimensions: 20 x 20 Description: This knitting textile is made of two layers of fabric that incorporate conductive threads. Each layer has a structure that alternates conductor strips and isolating strips that give the material the resilience to get back in shape after a pressure solicitation. Supporting Materials:

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Credits: Jie Qi Year: 2012 video: http://youtu.be/hlZOExfOXIA Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jieq/sets/72157634587082013/ Materials: Copper tape, conductive fabric tape, solder, 1206 surface mount LEDs in red, yellow, pink, blue and white, magnets for battery holder Techniques: Soldering to components, copper tape and conductive fabric tape. Copper tape folding to make switches. Magnets and a folded flap were used to construct the battery holder Dimensions: 12cm x 8.5cm Description: The LED color graph demonstrates the varying voltage drops of different colors of LEDs, and how this voltage difference can be used to automatically turn multiple sets of LEDs on and off with only a single…

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Credits: Sara Robertson The swatches were developed as part of my practice-led PhD funded by the AHRC and supported by LCR Hallcrest (manufacturers of thermochromic systems) ‘An investigation of the design potential of thermochromic textiles used with electronic heat-profiling circuitry’ completed at the School of Textiles and Design, Heriot Watt University 2011. Liquid crystal dye systems offered particular opportunities in their application to textiles, including the previously unexploited design potential of their ability to change through a spectrum of colours, facilitated further by access to some unique materials made available by the industrial collaboration. Each swatch will be slightly different…

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Credits: Irene Posch & Ebru Kurbak Year: 2012 References: Links: www.flickr.com/photos/ebrukurbak/sets/72157631567228304/ Materials: acrylic yarn, enamelled copper wire (∅ 0,15 mm) Techniques: The capacitor consists of two enameled copper wires knitted in parallel to form the pattern. Being closely interknit with each other, the capacitance is created between the two strands of copper wire. The dielectric is the thin insulating enamel surface that covers the copper wire. Depending on the knitting pattern and its size different capacitor values can be reached. The capacitor can be connected at the ends of both copper wires. Dimensions: about 12 cm X 15 cm X…

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Credits: Irene Posch & Ebru Kurbak Year: 2012 References: Breadboard Pincushion: http://makezine.com/craft/how-to_breadboard_pincushion/ Textile Perfbord: http://www.plugandwear.com/default.asp?mod=product&cat_id=89,103&product_id=80 Links: www.flickr.com/photos/ebrukurbak/sets/72157631567228304/ Materials: wool, acrylic yarn, Karl Grimm silver plated nylon Techniques: The process starts with designing a pattern and creating a digital illustration file for the punch-card. The punch-card is then cut out of standard transparent overhead foil by using a silhouette Cameo electronic vinyl cutter. This punchcard is finally used on a Brother 860 punch-card operated knitting machine to create a the breadboard. Dimensions: about 12 cm X 14 cm X 0.3 cm Description: The Knitted Breadboard is part of our investigations to…

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Credits: Becky Stewart Year: 2013 References: Links: https://github.com/theleadingzero/excuse-me-swatch Materials: ATtiny45, SMD LEDs, conductive thread, non-conductive thread, non-conductive fabric Techniques: The brains of the swatch is an ATtiny45. The surrounding circuitry contains SMD LEDs with wire loops soldered on to make them sewable and two soft buttons. The larger button is the game controller with the other being the reset to play again. The ATtiny is soldered onto a small piece of stripboard that is sewn onto the fabric using conductive thread. Dimensions: 16 x 13 x 1 (max thickness) Description: This simple game illustrates some slightly more advanced interactions with…

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Credits: Isabel Cabral & A. P. Souto Year: 2012-2013 References: Links: Materials: 50%CO 50%PES Textile Substrate, Thermochromic Pigments (27ºC trigger temperature), Conventional Pigments, Binder with stiffness agent and paper touch agent, Aluminum foil, Wood glue Techniques: Screen printing, Spectrophotometer measurements, Origami Dimensions: 3x3cm (height collapsed-1cm; not collapsed ± 15cm) Description: This sample applies a research phase of my current PhD Program in Textile Engineering. The objective of these experiments consist of the development of systematized processes to elaborate paste recipes and screen printing with thermochromic (TC) and conventional pigments in order to obtain a defined colour ratio from diverse colours…

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Credits: Melissa Coleman Year: 2013 References: new-retro designs like the ones of Brook&Lyn and Maryanne Moodie Links: Materials: Wool, cotton thread, gold thread, conductive thread, grass from Greenwhich. Techniques: Hand woven with rya knots and holes. Dimensions: 9 x 11 x 0.2 cm Description: The frills of rya knots work as a sensor, either when they are touched or when blown in the wind. The sample is an experiment with weaving with conductive thread. Supporting Materials:

Credits: PlugandWear – Riccardo Marchesi and Troy Nachtigall Year: 2010 Links: http://www.plugandwear.com/default.asp?mod=cpages&page_id=23 Materials: Polyester, Stainless Steel Techniques: Scomar 2 Meter Flatbed Knitting Machine, Overlock Machine Dimensions: 4cmx10cmx0.3cm Description: We wanted to create a digital sensor that was as simple and possible to create in an industrial process. This knitted textile sensor is a sandwich idea where two conductive layers are separated by a raschel knit (Holes) insulative layer. Presure conects both sides. We discovered an analog interface later in the experimentation process using a diagonal instead of a horizontal hookup. We have made versions of the sensor up to 50cmx50cm…

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Credits: Martijn ten Bhömer, Kristi Kuusk, Paula Kassenaar, Textiel Museum TextielLab, Philips Research Year: 2012 References: The idea of light pockets is based on Paula Kassenaar’s “Soft Interior” project. (http://wearablesenses.net/soft-interiors/) Links: http://dqi.id.tue.nl/sts/tender/ Materials: Fabric: – Bio-cotton, ecru colored – Conductive Elektrisola (0101 HF-Litze 4 x 0,0710 mm Grad 1 Polysol-155) Back: – Elastic, ecru colored thread – Conductive Bekaert (Bekitex BK 50/2, 50 Ω/cm) Techniques: – Fabric has been knitted on a Stoll Knit-and-wear machine. To create the fabric 8 intarsia yarn feeders where used. – The electronics can be placed in the pockets, and connected by soldering the copper…

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Credits: Anja Hertenberger Year: 2013 Materials: Conductive Yarn: Gunze & Mitsufuji (ETC SI30), 6 Ohm / 20 cm Linnen Fabric Cotton Thread Technic: For this sample I used a simple pattern of a Medieval Egyptian “Blackwork” Embroidery (by Heather Rose Jones). To be able to create 3 conductive lines I used a part of the whole pattern. http://heatherrosejones.com/egyptianblackwork/ The outer lines have a resistance of 2,2 ohm by 6,2 centimeters. The inner line has a resistance of 2,0 ohm by 6,2 centimeters. For the Blackwork embroidery you normally use double running also called the Holbein stitch. With a cotton thread…

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Credits: Lynsey Calder Year: 2012 References: Dr Sara Robertson – Transitional stripes (heat sinks) Links: link to come Materials: Silk Twill fabric, Thermochromic pigment, Fluorescent pigment, Textile binder, Foil glue, Textile foil, Copper tape, 150Ω surface mount resistor, Solder, Multithreaded core copper insulated wire, power supply (not included) Techniques: Screen printing; Foiling, Soldering Dimensions: 5x5x0.5 Description: This prototype is part of a bigger project named ‘Smart Costumes’. By bringing together several textile processes with surface mount electronics and Arduino I have developed a costume which can change colour in different sequences using a simple Arduino blink sketch. This sample shows…

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Credits: Barbro Scholz, TITV Year: 2011/2012 Link: http://www.barbroscholz.de/blog/2011/07/11/time/ Materials: Surface is made of Bekinox conductive wool (with steelfibers blend) application made of copperfibers on small sample: TC ink 27°C and common ink Techniques: Felting with was dine with soap and water, the copper applications were applied with a felting needle. The print is a screen print pattern. Dimensions: 3x7x0.4 & 5x7x0.4 Description: This is a part of the project “Do you like the pace?” an interactive time interface showing undefined timeframe. It was also an investigation on the manipulation of conductive felted surfaces by conductive embroidery or application. Supporting Materials:

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Credits: Mili Tharakan Year: Links: Materials: Zardozi – metal wire, Cotton fabric, Embroidery loop, Fine sewing needle, Cotton sewing thread Techniques: The fabric to be embroidered is traced with the desired pattern and stretched onto an embroidery loop. It is important that the fabric is taut so that the embroidery can be done evenly. The zardozi thread is cut into the required length depending on the pattern. Techniques such as couching and cross-hatching are used to get different effects. A fine needle and thread is passed through the inside of the zardozi thread and embroidered down onto the fabric. The…

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Credits: Sarah Taylor Year: 2012 References: Concept initiated by design developments during an Arts & Humanities (AHRC) Research Leave Award, 2007 and exhibit commission piece, Inner Light: programmable, light-emitting woven paper commissioned by the National Museum of Scotland for The Cutting Edge Scotland’s Contemporary Crafts Links: Materials: Polymer optical fibre; paper yarn; adhesive, paper-based non-woven; white or RGB LED; battery or electrical source. Techniques: Aligning fibre and yarn using warping stakes; laser etching; coupling optical fibres to a light source. Dimensions: material: 7x2x0.2cm total: 13x2x0.2cm Description: The light-emitting paper was developed during a con-TEXT designer-maker residency at Heriot-Watt University, funded…

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Credits: Pauline Vierne (textile designer), GUIGOU (knitting factory), Creafibres (Resistive thread maker) Year: 2013 Links: Materials: Resistive thread – made of 20% inox and 80% Polyster – from Créafibres and Viscose thread 100%, Knitted by Guigou on circular knitting machine. Techniques: spinning, knitting Dimensions: about 10 x 10 x 0,1 Description: This resistive knitting shows two different sides : one with the resistive thread, another with viscose. (half of the samples I give for the exchange will be knitted with a grey polyester thread 100% instead of viscose thread, this is the same work, but the Polyester fabric should be…

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Credits: Katharina Vones and Sara Robertson Year: June/July 2013 Links: Dimensions: Approx 4cm X 4cm X 1mm Description: A collaboration between Katharina (who works with silicone and smart materials in her Jewellery practice) and Sara (who works with chromic materials and textiles) especially for the e-textiles swatch book. Materials and Techniques: 4 x Sample 4: (Transparent silicone thermochromic fabric) Fabric: Laser Cut Black 100% polyester Thermochromic: Chromazone Thermochromic Powder Red 19°C Pigment: Blue Artists Pigment Powder Silicone: 12 grams Silicone to 1.2 grams Developer Mixed together and spread in a thin layer onto plastic film then fabric placed into silicone…

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Credits: Marina Toeters • by-wire.net Year: 2013 Links: http://www.by-wire.net/130630-e-textile-swatch/ Materials: Srubbed knitted material Trading: Laintex bv, Weesp, Netherlands Reference: 60100 Composition: 85% PES, 15% EA Width: 150 cm / Weight: 230 gm2 Magnet zipper Maker: Systemmag.com, Paris, France Reference: ZC-1,5-090 Composition: 1) Magnets: Nd-Fe-B Rare Earth magnetic ceramics, passivated zinc galvanisation. 2) Pouches: 100% PA Sensitive® Maker: Eurojersey SPA, Caronno Pertusella, Italy Reference: T BFAQ Composition: 72% PA, 28% EA Width: 150 cm / Weight: 160 gm2 Stretch conductive fabric Composition: 92% Silver plated, 8% Nylon Width: 135 cm / Weight: 130 gm2 Knitted spacer fabric Trading: De Boerenbonthal Stoffen…

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Credits: Meg Grant Year: 2013 Links: http://manifoldproject.nl Materials: 100% wool felt, 12V 5050 flexible LED strip, Non-pvc heat press t-shirt decal “”vinyl”, Bison-tix adhesive Techniques: There are three layers in this sample, two felt and one vinyl. The middle layer of felt has holes cut out for the LEDs, so that the whole sample remains flat. Contact adhesive is used to stick the two layers of felt together and heat press vinyl techniques are used to stick the LED strip to the felt. I also used embroidery for the sample, although this is simply to allow easy connectivity to a…

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Credits: Hannah Perner-Wilson Year: 2009 Links: http://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=201 Materials: copper polyester taffeta fabric, silver plated nylon fabric, Karl-Grimm copper thread 7×1 fach verseilt kupfer blank 3981, silver plated nylon thread 117/17 2ply, heavy metal bead, glass/plastic beads, green or black silk taffeta fabric, cotton thread, HeatnBond fusible interfacing, solder, 0603 surface mount green LEDs, CR2032 coin-cell battery Techniques: lasercutting, fusing, sewing, soldering Dimensions: 8cm x 8cm x 0.5cm Description: A heavy metal bead strung on conductive thread and surrounded by conductive fabric petals, makes for a simple six way digital tilt switch. When the metal bead makes contact with one of…

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Credits: Mika Satomi Year: 2010 Link:http://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=3099 Materials: conductive yarn, normal yarn, marble/stone, beads, conductive thread, conductive fabric Techniques: crochet Dimensions: 12cm x 3cm x 1cm Description: When you knit/crochet with conductive yarn, it changes the resistance when it is stretched. So, I thought of making an accelerometer with same principle. The weight at the end pulls and stretches the crochet or knitted structure as it gets accelerated. It works the best when this sensor (more of an object) is swung around like hammer throwing. For the sample book, it is made with crochet technique. The first round starts with single…

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Credits: Kristi Kuusk, Unit040, johan van den acker textielfabriek, studio toer Year: 2012 References: Link: http://www.kristikuusk.com/?p=601 Materials: Cotton or Polyester, iPad Techniques: weaving, software development Dimensions: 12×15 Description: “Bedtime Stories is a project developed further from earlier work called QR-coded Traditions. It consists of a set of bed sheets that have images woven into the fabric for children. The images are recognized by software and create interaction possibilities between digital and physical worlds, generations, past and future. It is a way to put the kid into the story creation to actually experience the fairy-tale. Personal values get transferred together with…

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Credits: Contrechoc Year: 2013 Exoplanet reference: http://planetquest.jpl.nasa.gov/ Link for images: http://www.flickr.com/photos/contrechoc/sets/72157634279086536/ Script: https://github.com/contrechoc/exobag Interactivity: ATTINY13a, LDR, resistor Materials: tent fabric, (side 1: camouflage, side 2 silver green), organza Techniques: Soldering, programming, sewing, embroidering Dimensions: folded 13×16 x 2cm, extended 16 x 20 x 7 Description: You take this Exobag along on your journey to an exoplanet. After travelling for a few decades at lightspeed you enjoy a picknick at a lake of liquid ammonia. When a dark cloud of sulphuric acid drifts in front of the two suns there will be a small Exobag LED blinking to comfort you. You…

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Credits: Marta Kisand, Barbro Scholz Year: 2013 References: Historical laces of 16th century Italy Link: Materials: 100% cotton thread (size 10), conductive thread (117/17 2ply, Sparkfun.com) Techniques: Bobbin-lace Dimensions: 10 cm x 4 cm x 0.1 cm Description: “Bobbin-lace making started in the 16th century in Italy. Back then the lace was made with gold and silver-wrapped threads or colored silks and linen threads to create rich and extravagant designs. Inspired by the historical lace making, this sample explores the possibilities of using this old technique today to create contemporary designs. This sample is made using silver plated thread and…